36 Hours in Vieques
36 Hours in Vieques
By HUGH RYAN
Copyright by The New York Times
Published: February 21, 2010
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/02/21/travel/21hours.html?hpw
THE mascot of Vieques seems to be the coquí, a tiny frog whose image adorns everything from T-shirts to hot sauce bottles. Yet, given the island’s rapid metamorphosis from Navy testing ground to upscale beach resort, perhaps a tropical butterfly would be better suited. Since the United States Navy ceased military operations in 2003, this small island just off the east coast of mainland Puerto Rico has seen a boom in restaurants, galleries and hotels, including a new W resort expected next month. It’s a testament to the island’s natural beauty, with its white-sand beaches, coral reefs and bioluminescent bay.
A Weekend in Vieques, Puerto Rico
Friday
4 p.m.
1) LIFE’S A BEACH
Vieques has spent the last year improving many of its beaches; access to some were in shambles when the Navy left. Red Beach, along a wide-mouthed cove on the island’s warmer Caribbean side, reopened last December, though it has since temporarily closed for road work, and features open-walled wooden cabanas and ample parking. The beach gets a little crowded in the afternoons but in the evenings the crowds are gone, and it has some of the clearest azure blue water on the island — and terrific snorkeling along the eastern end.
7 p.m.
2) TROPICAL FLAVORS
Dinner in the Caribbean should be about three things: local seafood, fresh air and good drinks. The recently opened Cantina La Reina (351 Calle Antonio G. Mellado; 787-741-2700; cantina-lareina.com) in Isabel Segunda has all three. Decorated with Catholic iconography, posters of Mexican revolutionaries and old photos of banditos, La Reina may make you forget what country you’re in — until you take a bite of the fresh catch with mango salsa (market price) or the Baja-style shrimp tacos ($18). The rooftop patio also offers fantastic views. Dinner can be a little slow, like the general pace of life on the island. As the bumper stickers say, “What’s the hurry? You are in Vieques.”
10 p.m.
3) FROM BUNKER TO CLUB
Another sign of how fast things have changed? A decade ago, the old naval base near Green Beach was home to military bunkers. One of those bunkers was recently transformed into the 10,000-square-foot Club Tumby (Antigua Base Naval, Barrio Mosquito; 787-399-7142; clubtumby.com). The mega-disco, which plays bachata, salsa, bomba, merengue and reggaetón, draws local 20-somethings and visitors almost literally to the middle of nowhere.
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) BEACHCOMBING
Beaches on the Atlantic side of Vieques are often overlooked — after all, no one talks about going to an “Atlantic island” for vacation. But Glass Beach, a tiny stretch of sand at the end of Calle Regimientio 65 de la Infanteria, has a special attraction: perfectly smooth stones, seashells and sea glass — hence the name. Local jewelry makers come to gather supplies. Despite the incessant construction along the waterfront, it’s a great place to pick up a souvenir.
Noon
5) SCENE BY THE SEA
Calle Flamboyán in Esperanza is also called the Malecón, Spanish for seafront. The Caribbean laps right up against the street’s rampart, which on Saturday afternoons is the site of a continuously changing market. Artists sell jewelry and clothing, farmers sell organic produce, and food carts grill spicy kebabs of shrimp and chicken ($3). For a spicy cocoa or a coffee spiked with rum ($6), stop by the new Window Cafe, a coffee stand set into the side of Lazy Jack’s bar (61 Calle Orquideas; 787-741-1447; www.lazyjacksvieques.com). With a few outdoor tables, it’s also a great place for people watching.
1 p.m.
6) SEE TURTLES
The waters off Vieques are home to aquatic wonders, including manatees, dolphins, eagle rays, nurse sharks, barracuda and sea turtles, which come up on the beaches to lay their eggs in January and February. A number of companies offer two-hour snorkeling trips around Cayo Afuera, a small scrub island with a large coral reef on its eastern side. A reliable outfitter is Abe’s Snorkeling (787-741-2134; abessnorkeling.com), which offers a $35 tour that includes kayak and snorkeling equipment and knowledgeable guides. If you prefer to go on your own, pick up a $15 mask from Black Beard Sports (101 Calle Muñoz Rivera; 787-741-1892; blackbeardsports.com), a local emporium that can offer helpful tips on good diving spots.
4 p.m.
7) TROPICAL FOREST RUINS
Channel your Tomb Raider fantasies by exploring the ruins of Central Playa Grande, one of the 19th-century sugar plantations that once dominated Vieques. A dozen stone and brick ruins lie hidden in the forest, obscured by ceiba trees and bougainvillea vines. A new two-lane steel bridge is expected to open later this winter and provide a quicker route. But for the moment, the bumpy journey goes over rutted roads and dirt paths. The adventurous — and those with four-wheel drive — can explore on their own. Look for a small sign that reads “Sleeping giant, witness to our history,” marking the trailhead off PR-201. Alternatively, the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (138 Calle Flamboyán; 787-741-8850; vcht.com) runs tours for $30. You can even visit on horseback with Elizabeth from Expediciones en Bieque (787-435-0073; naturalvieques.com) for $65.
8 p.m.
8) FRESH CATCHES
In much of Puerto Rico, “fried” seems to be the most popular food group. For more refined dining, try El Quenepo in Esperanza (148 Calle Flamboyán; 787-741-1215), among the new wave of tablecloth-and-candlelit restaurants on the island. It elevates native Caribbean ingredients like breadfruit, calabaza squash and limón to a higher culinary plane. Try the line-caught dorado, grilled and wrapped in pancetta and served over a seafood risotto ($23). The charming owners, Scott and Kate Cole, are from North Carolina.
10 p.m.
9) SWIMMING WITH STARS
The otherwordly bioluminescent bay on the Caribbean side of the island lives up to its reputation. But until recently, the most intimate way of getting close up to this magical mass of glowing microorganisms was to strip down to your swimming suit and get wet. For a more civilized approach, take a kayak tour with Vieques Adventures (787-692-9162; viequesadventures.com), which just introduced a new fleet of translucent kayaks. Tours start at $35 a person. Whomever you go with, make sure they’re licensed. Portions of the license fees go to Puerto Rico’s Department of Natural Resources, to protect the wondrous ecosystem.
Sunday
9:30 a.m.
10) DOWNWARD DOGGY-PADDLE
What better place to do your sun salutations than on the white sands of Sun Bay? Local yogi MariAngeles (787-435-7510) leads 90-minute Kundalini-style classes on the eastern end of the beach for $15. Call ahead to confirm or bring a mat and do it on your own.
11 a.m.
11) BOOTS, NOT FLIP-FLOPS
Cars, horses, scooters, skateboards — Vieques seems to discourage walking. But for hiking enthusiasts, there is hope still. On the western edge of Sun Bay, the Caribbean cove right outside the town of Esperanza on PR-997, is a land bridge that leads to Cayo de Tierra, a wooded atoll a quarter mile off the coast of Vieques. Small trails crisscross the island, which is uninhabited except for birds, geckos and the occasional iguana. From the rocky promontory, you get a breathtaking view of Vieques, and manatees have been known to splash in the shallow waters below.
1 p.m.
12) ART WITH A HEART
For an island with such beauty, it’s no surprise that there is a strong art scene, mostly of pastoral landscapes, with a number of galleries catering to tourists and locals alike. Among the newest is Deda Galeria de Arte (Intersection of Calle Muñoz Rivera and Calle Carlos Lebron; 787-741-1297; dedaonline.com), run by Aleksandar Janjic, a Serbian artist who trained in ceramics at the University of Belgrade. The raw, white-walled space features island artists, including his own digitally manipulated photographs of local flora and fauna. Open weekdays, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. or call for an appointment. A new show, put up on Valentine’s Day, will benefit the relief effort in nearby Haiti.
IF YOU GO
Flights to Vieques require a connection in San Juan. Numerous airlines including American, Continental and JetBlue fly nonstop to San Juan from New York City, with fares starting at $300, according to a recent search. From San Juan, several small carriers including Vieques Air Link (888-901-9247; vieques-island.com/val) offer connecting puddle jumpers starting at $90. There is also a two-hour ferry from the town of Fajardo, but it can be crowded and noisy; though the ferry is only $2, the taxi to Fajardo can be as much as $80.
A rental car is a must and should be booked weeks in advance during the high season. Maritza’s Car Rental (787-741-0078) is one of the friendliest, and will meet you at the airport. Call ahead, and specify that you want a car with air-conditioning and four-wheel drive.
The Hix Island House (787-741-2302; hixislandhouse.com) is situated on 13 acres of Vieques wilderness. The 13 apartments are spread out over four elegant buildings, with terrific views, outdoors showers, kitchens and a large shared pool. In 2009, a yoga pavilion with daily classes was added. Rates start at $195 in the high season.
Next month, the W Retreat & Spa (State Road 200; 954-624-1768; whotels.com/vieques) is expected to open on the northwest side of the island, featuring a gym, spa and a restaurant by Alain Ducasse. Rooms begin at $389.
By HUGH RYAN
Copyright by The New York Times
Published: February 21, 2010
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/02/21/travel/21hours.html?hpw
THE mascot of Vieques seems to be the coquí, a tiny frog whose image adorns everything from T-shirts to hot sauce bottles. Yet, given the island’s rapid metamorphosis from Navy testing ground to upscale beach resort, perhaps a tropical butterfly would be better suited. Since the United States Navy ceased military operations in 2003, this small island just off the east coast of mainland Puerto Rico has seen a boom in restaurants, galleries and hotels, including a new W resort expected next month. It’s a testament to the island’s natural beauty, with its white-sand beaches, coral reefs and bioluminescent bay.
A Weekend in Vieques, Puerto Rico
Friday
4 p.m.
1) LIFE’S A BEACH
Vieques has spent the last year improving many of its beaches; access to some were in shambles when the Navy left. Red Beach, along a wide-mouthed cove on the island’s warmer Caribbean side, reopened last December, though it has since temporarily closed for road work, and features open-walled wooden cabanas and ample parking. The beach gets a little crowded in the afternoons but in the evenings the crowds are gone, and it has some of the clearest azure blue water on the island — and terrific snorkeling along the eastern end.
7 p.m.
2) TROPICAL FLAVORS
Dinner in the Caribbean should be about three things: local seafood, fresh air and good drinks. The recently opened Cantina La Reina (351 Calle Antonio G. Mellado; 787-741-2700; cantina-lareina.com) in Isabel Segunda has all three. Decorated with Catholic iconography, posters of Mexican revolutionaries and old photos of banditos, La Reina may make you forget what country you’re in — until you take a bite of the fresh catch with mango salsa (market price) or the Baja-style shrimp tacos ($18). The rooftop patio also offers fantastic views. Dinner can be a little slow, like the general pace of life on the island. As the bumper stickers say, “What’s the hurry? You are in Vieques.”
10 p.m.
3) FROM BUNKER TO CLUB
Another sign of how fast things have changed? A decade ago, the old naval base near Green Beach was home to military bunkers. One of those bunkers was recently transformed into the 10,000-square-foot Club Tumby (Antigua Base Naval, Barrio Mosquito; 787-399-7142; clubtumby.com). The mega-disco, which plays bachata, salsa, bomba, merengue and reggaetón, draws local 20-somethings and visitors almost literally to the middle of nowhere.
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) BEACHCOMBING
Beaches on the Atlantic side of Vieques are often overlooked — after all, no one talks about going to an “Atlantic island” for vacation. But Glass Beach, a tiny stretch of sand at the end of Calle Regimientio 65 de la Infanteria, has a special attraction: perfectly smooth stones, seashells and sea glass — hence the name. Local jewelry makers come to gather supplies. Despite the incessant construction along the waterfront, it’s a great place to pick up a souvenir.
Noon
5) SCENE BY THE SEA
Calle Flamboyán in Esperanza is also called the Malecón, Spanish for seafront. The Caribbean laps right up against the street’s rampart, which on Saturday afternoons is the site of a continuously changing market. Artists sell jewelry and clothing, farmers sell organic produce, and food carts grill spicy kebabs of shrimp and chicken ($3). For a spicy cocoa or a coffee spiked with rum ($6), stop by the new Window Cafe, a coffee stand set into the side of Lazy Jack’s bar (61 Calle Orquideas; 787-741-1447; www.lazyjacksvieques.com). With a few outdoor tables, it’s also a great place for people watching.
1 p.m.
6) SEE TURTLES
The waters off Vieques are home to aquatic wonders, including manatees, dolphins, eagle rays, nurse sharks, barracuda and sea turtles, which come up on the beaches to lay their eggs in January and February. A number of companies offer two-hour snorkeling trips around Cayo Afuera, a small scrub island with a large coral reef on its eastern side. A reliable outfitter is Abe’s Snorkeling (787-741-2134; abessnorkeling.com), which offers a $35 tour that includes kayak and snorkeling equipment and knowledgeable guides. If you prefer to go on your own, pick up a $15 mask from Black Beard Sports (101 Calle Muñoz Rivera; 787-741-1892; blackbeardsports.com), a local emporium that can offer helpful tips on good diving spots.
4 p.m.
7) TROPICAL FOREST RUINS
Channel your Tomb Raider fantasies by exploring the ruins of Central Playa Grande, one of the 19th-century sugar plantations that once dominated Vieques. A dozen stone and brick ruins lie hidden in the forest, obscured by ceiba trees and bougainvillea vines. A new two-lane steel bridge is expected to open later this winter and provide a quicker route. But for the moment, the bumpy journey goes over rutted roads and dirt paths. The adventurous — and those with four-wheel drive — can explore on their own. Look for a small sign that reads “Sleeping giant, witness to our history,” marking the trailhead off PR-201. Alternatively, the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (138 Calle Flamboyán; 787-741-8850; vcht.com) runs tours for $30. You can even visit on horseback with Elizabeth from Expediciones en Bieque (787-435-0073; naturalvieques.com) for $65.
8 p.m.
8) FRESH CATCHES
In much of Puerto Rico, “fried” seems to be the most popular food group. For more refined dining, try El Quenepo in Esperanza (148 Calle Flamboyán; 787-741-1215), among the new wave of tablecloth-and-candlelit restaurants on the island. It elevates native Caribbean ingredients like breadfruit, calabaza squash and limón to a higher culinary plane. Try the line-caught dorado, grilled and wrapped in pancetta and served over a seafood risotto ($23). The charming owners, Scott and Kate Cole, are from North Carolina.
10 p.m.
9) SWIMMING WITH STARS
The otherwordly bioluminescent bay on the Caribbean side of the island lives up to its reputation. But until recently, the most intimate way of getting close up to this magical mass of glowing microorganisms was to strip down to your swimming suit and get wet. For a more civilized approach, take a kayak tour with Vieques Adventures (787-692-9162; viequesadventures.com), which just introduced a new fleet of translucent kayaks. Tours start at $35 a person. Whomever you go with, make sure they’re licensed. Portions of the license fees go to Puerto Rico’s Department of Natural Resources, to protect the wondrous ecosystem.
Sunday
9:30 a.m.
10) DOWNWARD DOGGY-PADDLE
What better place to do your sun salutations than on the white sands of Sun Bay? Local yogi MariAngeles (787-435-7510) leads 90-minute Kundalini-style classes on the eastern end of the beach for $15. Call ahead to confirm or bring a mat and do it on your own.
11 a.m.
11) BOOTS, NOT FLIP-FLOPS
Cars, horses, scooters, skateboards — Vieques seems to discourage walking. But for hiking enthusiasts, there is hope still. On the western edge of Sun Bay, the Caribbean cove right outside the town of Esperanza on PR-997, is a land bridge that leads to Cayo de Tierra, a wooded atoll a quarter mile off the coast of Vieques. Small trails crisscross the island, which is uninhabited except for birds, geckos and the occasional iguana. From the rocky promontory, you get a breathtaking view of Vieques, and manatees have been known to splash in the shallow waters below.
1 p.m.
12) ART WITH A HEART
For an island with such beauty, it’s no surprise that there is a strong art scene, mostly of pastoral landscapes, with a number of galleries catering to tourists and locals alike. Among the newest is Deda Galeria de Arte (Intersection of Calle Muñoz Rivera and Calle Carlos Lebron; 787-741-1297; dedaonline.com), run by Aleksandar Janjic, a Serbian artist who trained in ceramics at the University of Belgrade. The raw, white-walled space features island artists, including his own digitally manipulated photographs of local flora and fauna. Open weekdays, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. or call for an appointment. A new show, put up on Valentine’s Day, will benefit the relief effort in nearby Haiti.
IF YOU GO
Flights to Vieques require a connection in San Juan. Numerous airlines including American, Continental and JetBlue fly nonstop to San Juan from New York City, with fares starting at $300, according to a recent search. From San Juan, several small carriers including Vieques Air Link (888-901-9247; vieques-island.com/val) offer connecting puddle jumpers starting at $90. There is also a two-hour ferry from the town of Fajardo, but it can be crowded and noisy; though the ferry is only $2, the taxi to Fajardo can be as much as $80.
A rental car is a must and should be booked weeks in advance during the high season. Maritza’s Car Rental (787-741-0078) is one of the friendliest, and will meet you at the airport. Call ahead, and specify that you want a car with air-conditioning and four-wheel drive.
The Hix Island House (787-741-2302; hixislandhouse.com) is situated on 13 acres of Vieques wilderness. The 13 apartments are spread out over four elegant buildings, with terrific views, outdoors showers, kitchens and a large shared pool. In 2009, a yoga pavilion with daily classes was added. Rates start at $195 in the high season.
Next month, the W Retreat & Spa (State Road 200; 954-624-1768; whotels.com/vieques) is expected to open on the northwest side of the island, featuring a gym, spa and a restaurant by Alain Ducasse. Rooms begin at $389.
posted by Carlos T Mock at 12:32 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home